Saturday, January 05, 2008

put my finger on it

i have not been sleeping well since i returned and that paired with having to say good bye again was the logical explanation for why i have been feeling lonely and sad when i am home alone. but then this morning it dawned on me that this whole fiasco that kenya has found itself in is taking its toll on me. i hadn’t really been paying attention to how it was affecting me and had ignored how it was affecting kenyans emotionally.

i am still hopeful that the end of it is near and that it will be a matter of rebuilding and humanitarian aid along with political mediation and working towards a suitable resolution, but i guess the whole thing is unstable and could change course depending on what is decided the way forward is and whether or not people are content with the decisions made by the big men.

it makes me wonder what it would feel like if canada were in this position and i would be heartbroken. absolutely heartbroken. so i can imagine how keyans are feeling. you don’t realise what it means to live in a peaceful democracy until faced with the reality of something like this.

i am going to gather up all my old clothes and clothes i don’t wear anymore and drop them at the red cross drop off points to be delivered to the hundreds of thousands of internally displaced persons and hopefully i can feel more useful than i am feeling today. now i am even happier that i am considered ‘essential’ at work, at least i can keep moving and busy and feel useful.

strange times

(january 4, 2008)

if this doesn’t get me a job in the future, i am not sure what will. you know the interview question about overcoming a challenge? i would say that this whole situation would answer that question quite clearly.

but it does seem that the city (at least my part of it) is getting back on its feet. the grocery store was packed (although many shelves were empty and the city seems to be out of tuna again!) and there were people walking their dogs and cars on the streets. even the obnoxious flower vendors and heartless puppy dog hawkers were back at it today and the bank machines were working, which is promising. the infamous pub where the incident of the peacock in the night took place was packed at 5 and i think that that is good. although i am not sure that i could handle so many people just yet.

i overheard the security meeting at work today (it was pretty much me and the people in the meeting in the building and one guy who i think was hanging out waiting from some action) and it is very interesting to learn how things like this are handled and what needs to be taken into consideration. toilet paper for the offices, for instance, is something i would not have thought of. or when families are evacuated and which staff are moved and when. not that we are near that yet, but it has to be discussed. emergency planning might be for me.

these are strange times. while trying to get used to life back in nairobi without the other half i have been lugging around for a number of months i have had to arrange luggage drop off, man the department, and try to keep an open mind about the future and what will come in the immediate and distant future. and all with an ear attached to the radio* and responding to all the emails asking if i am ok.

i am very much ok and am very far from any of the areas that are showing up in the news around the world. it seems as though the current solution most favourable to both parties is to have another election within 3 months’ time. i am not convinced this is a good idea as i believe the country will remain at a relative standstill while the second election campaign gets underway and it will be very difficult to deliver humanitarian aid to all the displaced persons and keep the violence at bay in addition to the entire process of planning and implementing an election. and i am not optimistic that a second election would produce very different results, which would inevitably be contested. maybe archbishop desmond tutu has a better idea.

interesting times, that is for sure.

our office has decided to stay closed all of next week and only those essential staff are to report to work. i don’t mind so much, it beats sitting at home or being bored to tears. i only miss having tv during times like these. a good time waster. i am devouring books with this extra time (and jet lag which lets me have about 3 hours of sleep during sleeping hours). might i recommend The Book of Negroes by Lawrence Hill? if you liked Roots, you will enjoy this one too. and there is something about strong female characters that pulls me right in and the perspective on slavery in the us, the american civil war, the exodus to nova scotia, and the designation of sierra leone as a new homeland for freed slaves is fasc-in-a-ting to me. i also recently read Empress Orchid by Anchee Min, which i would also recommend. another strong female character and the imagery of 18th century china is mesmerising.

* speaking of my new best friend, the bbc, they were interviewing some english football coach/player/manager about the number of africans on his team and he said that with the current amount he is comfortable but if there were any more, that might make him ‘uncomfortable.’ on the international news? really? he thinks that it is ok to say that on international news? wow. racism sucks.

Friday, January 04, 2008

in the news, all new to me

(january 3, 2008)

i arrived in amsterdam for my connection to nairobi and to the times headline ‘kenya on the brink of civil war’ and began to worry. i am glad that i paid the ridiculous amount to connect to the wireless to see that i had an email from our security focal point at our organisation asking me to contact them and there was some speculation on me staying in amsterdam due to the unrest and violence in nairobi, but it was decided that i should get on my flight, although it was notably less full than they normally are. i had no idea what to expect or that it was a good idea to be coming back, but i slept the entire flight and only woke up to eat the surprisingly yummy airplane food.

after landing in nairobi, i took advantage of their rather incomprehensible duty free shops upon arrival and bought a radio (which is really something i should have done months ago, i forgot what great company the bbc is) and carried on to find out that my bags had not made it through a rushed and delayed transfer through minneapolis. i had to continually check in with people from my organisation and take a taxi with a radio to ensure that i was travelling as safely as possible late at night. all went well and the only thing i noticed was that the streets were absolutely deserted and the bank machines i tried were all out of service.

i have been following the news almost all day today and am beginning to think that although things are pretty chaotic and the election was full of irregularities, the international news has exaggerated the scope and intensity of the conflicts. not that people being massacred while seeking protection in a church should be downplayed, but local accounts are putting the number of dead in that incident at 40 and not 200. although things are rather chaotic and rallies are being prevented by use of tear gas and live rounds, i think that saying that kenya is on the brink of civil war is pretty irresponsible journalism. and comparisons to rwanda and genocide is outright wrong at this point.

in my radio listening this morning, i heard the us ambassador to kenya talk about what should happen next and he had a few good points. although there have been irregularities reported by the eu election observer mission and the elections commission of kenya, staging another election would be a huge undertaking, would take months to plan and organise, and would not necessarily have different results. the country is split down the middle in their support between odinga and kibaki and if another election were held, it would not necessarily change popular sentiment.

archbishop tutu is attempting to mediate and the us will send a delegation tomorrow to try and get these big men to sit down and sort this out, but as an observer, i don’t see any way to come to an agreement on this disputed election. maybe that is why they didn’t invite me to mediate. and the fact that i am not an international figure of peace and reconciliation.

as an expat living and working in kenya, i am deeply troubled by the fact that a country as stable and developed by african standards can disintegrate into tribal politics so easily. and that the looting and violence was mainly in the slums of nairobi and against kikuyus is difficult to process. i am not sure that i can ever understand and as much as people will defend it as historical and cultural and inherently difficult for outsiders to comprehend, i am not sure that i buy it. taking advantage of a situation to commit crimes for your own personal gain just seems barbaric and targeting a specific group with the assumption that they are personally responsible for the situation is perplexing to say the least. i realise that many of the people are uneducated and living in poverty but how are basic values disregarded so easily? many of the people carrying out such acts are groups of young men, which raises so many questions about gender and deviance, none of which i believe will be answered anytime soon.

they suspect that kenya is losing $34 million daily in tax revenue alone as the economy is at a standstill. as roads and transport corridors are essentially closed, aid supplies are not able to get to the refugee camps and the neighbouring countries that rely on kenya to move necessary supplies. i suspect that tourism will slow over the next year and the exchange rate will fluctuate after 2007 gains against major currencies. my job may drastically change even when things get back to normal and peace is restored. i was supposed to be in kisumu in the last weeks of january but that is one of the areas most devastated by the unrest and my project will understandably not be a priority. and as i work closely with the government, i am doubtful that things will be back to reasonable working conditions for awhile considering the speed with which the government of kenya moves regularly and with the confusion that has been left in the wake of a disputed election.

for the time being, i get to be ‘essential staff’ and come into work to help with urgent proposals mostly because i live so close to the office and not because i am necessarily essential! but i am happy to be able to do something and that our offices are officially closed so that our kenyan staff who have to travel through the city are not at risk simply by travelling to work.

i had a lot of nice text messages and overseas calls from people concerned about me, which was nice. and i have spoken to all the people i know who would be most at risk here and they are safe, but stuck at home.

and i now if things can be peaceful enough tomorrow so i can have my bags delivered...

oh yes, and happy new year.

Thursday, January 03, 2008

update

apparently i should have been more concerned for the future of kenya than pakistan.

things are relatively stable but apparently there is another rally planned for today and because i live so close to the office i have become 'essential staff' but my phone charger is stuck in my bags which are stuck at the airport and i have very little food in my flat so they better damn well sort this out soon.

i wrote more but then promptly left the flashdisk at home, but will post it shortly.

now back to my bbc...

Friday, December 28, 2007

3 things

i am not ready to leave. and that is all i have to say about that.

also not thrilled with the preliminary results of the kenyan presidential election. and that is all i will say about that.

i am disgusted with the assassination of Benazir Bhutto and i am afraid for pakistan.

Monday, December 24, 2007

happy birthday jesus!

at this time last year, i was sitting on a beach in mombasa, enjoying the sun and the company, but feeling rather lonely as christmas just doesn't match with the indian ocean, spf 15, or margaritas for me.

in the last few weeks, i have been exceptionally busy and today i have no plans. (apart from that red cup date i just made, which is less like plans and more like a calm visit) between trips to kananaskis, fernie, the saddledome, dinner parties, heritage park, the mall, the other mall, the other big box store, and seasonal parties, i am pooped. showing someone around your home is so much fun but exhasuting. and having a sinus cold is not really helping my stamina or ability to go through any one event without consuming something that makes me a bit loopy and/or drowsy and stopping the fun to constantly blow my nose and sneeze.

but i am ready for christmas simply because i don't want to have to do anything for an entire day except eat, play games, open gifts, eat some more, and relax (and it helps that i have been done my shopping for a few days). but i would still rather be here, pooped and sneezing, than in a tropical destination. and for that, i am happy.

merry christmas!

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

conscious stream

i have been sneezing pretty much constantly since i arrived in yyc. not sure if it is allergies or a cold, but either way it is gross.

i have watched some hockey, i have eaten some beef, and i have christmas shopped in the past week. the usual. it has been packed and busy, but great. my sleeping schedule is still a bit whacky and i cannot seem to stay up past 10 or sleep past 9, but i suppose there is really nothing wrong with that as i am on vacation.

i am off to a cabin where i intend on visiting, drinking wine, hot springing, dining, lake skating, and observing ice fishing in action. i am looking forward to it all.

on the other hand, i am also a little bit worried that time is passing so quickly and that soon i will have to get back on a plane. i wish this visit could be stretched out this time. i feel at home and that this is where i need to be at the moment.

seems to be one of the few things i am sure of lately.

Monday, December 17, 2007

7 things you might not have known about me

Here are the The Rules:
Each player starts with 7 random facts/habits about themselves. People who are tagged need to then report this on their own blog with their 7 things as well as these rules. They then need to tag others and list their names on their blog. They are also asked to leave a comment for each of the tagged, to let them know that they have been tagged and to read the blog.

1. I love Q Tips and no other brand will suffice

2. I am really quite shy

3. I am now the shortest of my 3 (all younger) siblings in the fam

4. I have a one-eyed dog

5. I contemplate doing a phd at least every other day

6. I love to organise but leave my stuff everywhere and never have a tidy room (until I had a housekeeper!)

7. I rarely wear heels

As the game goes, I now tag inspired by dooce, yarn is my metier, and portrait of a girl dressed in blue!

Thursday, December 13, 2007

suspension of judgement

(december 12, 2007)

if i can say one thing about minneapolis is that people are friendly. like the kind of friendly that makes a solo traveller feel at ease. well, apart from the immigration police officer who started raising his voice for all in the hall to hear as he told a woman, ‘this is my house and here we do things my way, maybe you do things different in your house but you are in the us now’ and ‘i am not afraid to put you under arrest.’ and all this fuss because she was ill and didn’t want to wait for the medic to arrive after he had called her. i try to suspend judgement, but a situation like that how can you not roll your eyes and feel embarrassed for americans. and if you know me, you know that i defend americans from the bad rap that they get so often and that too often people make the most negative stereotypes about them. but then after that episode, how i can i blame them?

other lovely things about today:
  • i have been travelling for nearly 2 days and am dirtay (ok that one is not so lovely)
  • i did not freeze my buns off although it is snowy and cold in Minneapolis
  • i went to the Mall of America and there is no way that it is bigger than West Edmonton Mall, nicer though
  • i treated myself to a solo lunch (i love going out for meals alone, especially when in foreign places) of canadian salmon and a glass of red wine – delicious!
  • water fountains! i had forgotten about those. i love drinkable tap water
  • telling people what i do generally impresses people. the customs guy (not the ass i mentioned above) told me it sounded interesting, the starbucks guy was fascinated, my server at the restaurant said i was on the ‘good guys’ side,’ and the t shirt lady gave me a discount as i chatted with her about where i am from, where i live, and whether or not i am married (a strange stranger question, but not at all offensive because she was just so friendly)
  • i did a lot of shopping. but i got a lot of gifts, which is a good thing as i was beginning to worry about being able to get it all done. i would say which gifts i am most happy about but i must keep it a secret
  • the most enormous ukranian lady sat beside from amsterdam to minneapolis and it made eating difficult as she really took up my space. i have never known what i think about making obese people buy two seats, but i think i paid for more space that i actually got today
  • who knew there were so many asian people in minneapolis?
  • i stood in line for one of my flights in from of two professional bmx riders and i am sure they were much smarter than they sounded. geez. i have tried to work the word ‘like’ out of excessive use and i would suggest they do too if they ever decide to be grow ups (not that being a professional bmx rider is not grown up, but talking like a teenager is not grown up and kind of obnoxious in a line up when i cannot get away from it)
  • i stood behind this most miserable mother and her three children in the same line up and was convinced the entire time that with her louis handbag, designer jeans, botoxed lips, and nasal accent that she was merican, but was mildly disappointed when i realised that she was canadian. and i bet they were headed back to calgary... (so much for suspending judgement)
  • i had my first egg nog latte in a red cup of the season! (and my tongue is still burnt as a reminder)
  • mass consumerism – wow
  • christmas tunes everywhere, i love it
  • things that work! like bathrooms (with hot water AND soap, what luxury) and public transport that won’t unnecessarily risk your life
  • an observation – while waiting for my flight in amsterdam, there were many empty seats in a section of the gate and the only people sitting there were a muslim woman entirely covered and african men and women and everyone else was all crammed into the other sections. strangely (or not?), i immediately went to sit near them as i felt less threatened and more comfortable
  • i will be home in 5 hours!
  • i bought a shirt today that says ‘i only date republicans’ – oh, the irony.
  • i have been sneezing up a storm (also not so lovely) and am afraid that i have contracted plane germs
  • the american woman behind me and the enormous ukranian woman (who was very sweet and ordered everything that i did because she did not speak much english, i hope she likes tomato juice!) seemed to be calling her most very best girlfriends in the whole world (and she was about 45) to tell them about her upcoming wedding to a knight in england and how she has been divorced since she last saw these most very best girlfriends but they are such most important special people to her that she wanted them to come to her most fantastic and beautiful wedding. i wanted to tell her to shut up and take her phone calls of such a personal nature off the plane, besides she kept apologising for waking every one of them up as if she didn’t know. flake. (ok, so much for suspending judgement, but travelling for so long in one stretch gives you lots of people watching and listening time)
  • did i mention christmas tunes?! and home in 5 hours?!
  • yay

Monday, December 10, 2007

25!

happy birthday suz!

you remember how i felt about 25, so i hope that she is kinder to you and if not, a swift kick in the junk normally takes care of everything!

miss you, but not long now...